When the twintips arrived some years ago, it really messed up the binding mounting process. Mounting telemark bindings have always been a pretty straightforward task. In Scandinavia the balance point was always the obvious reference point, while the cord center was the more common reference point in North America. Some skiers preferred to move the bindings a little forward, but there was never much mystery to the process.

When the twintips entered the marked, the old mounting procedures didn’t work any longer. The extra tip added weight to the tail, but wasn’t really an active part of the ski, and thus the balance point was moved towards the tail. We clearly needed to find a new mounting procedure.

The obvious solution is to use the alpine reference point as the reference. Most skis have a reference point that correlates to the mid boot point when mounting alpine bindings. This is the ski manufacturer’s recommended mounting point. On some skis, like for instance Rossi’s Scratch series, there are several different reference points. Which one you’re supposed to use, depends on which kind of skiing you’re doing. If you’re a jibber and doing a lot spinning, fakies and stuff, you obviously want a binding position closer to the center of the ski. If you’re spending most of your time with more traditional skiing, you’d better be closer to the tail.

What really messes things up are the big differences between the skis. Some have a small twintip, some have a big twintip, and the recommended binding position varies quite a bit. This makes it almost impossible to come up with a good rule of thumb, and experience is really the only way to make sure that you’re placement is the optimal.

Salomon’s Pocket Rocket and Rossignol’s Scratch BC have been popular skis for some year’s now. On both these skis our experience is that the optimal binding placement for powder skiing and versatile use, is 3-4 cm closer to the tail than the manufacturers recommended postion. This really makes a significant difference, especially in powder, and affects the feel of the ski big time.

On skis like the Dynastar Pro Rider, the twintip is smaller and the optimal position is closer to the recommended alpine mounting point. We mainly mount these as recommended or 1 cm behind.

If we’re in doubt, and especially on skis with a small twin tip, we usually compare balance point mounting and alpine point mounting, and based on this, we choose something in between.

Another check is the running surface method. The running surface is the part of the base that touches the ground if you place the ski on a flat surface. As a rule of thumb you should have approximately 45% of the running surface behind mid boot and 55% ahead mid boot for all round skiing.

As for using the Linken mounting template for “alpine” mounting, the process is as follows:

1. Measure the distance of the sole boot from the three-pin line (the three holes in the soles) and to the heel. Divide this by two to find the mid sole. On a Scarpa T1 size 9, this will be 15,5 cm from the heel, so for this size add a new line on the ski, 15,5 cm ahead of the original mid boot line.
2. Use the new line as the reference, or the “balance line” for the template.

When using the Linken mounting jig, the jig itself is prepared for both balance point mounting and “alpine” mounting. If you’re “alpine” mounting a Scarpa size 9, simply put the jig directly on the ski with the scale related to size 9 according to the original mid boot line on the ski, and go ahead!

As mentioned above, the only way to verify a placement, is by experience. If your tips are diving in powder, it’s probably a good idea to move the bindings closer to the tail. If it’s hard to initiate turns and the ski feels dead, it might be a good idea to move the binding closer to the tip. As long as you plug the old holes, it’s not a disaster to drill new holes in a pair of skis, but remember that a new ski always requires some time to get used to, so give it some time before you make the conclusion.

Any feedback on placement experiences on different ski models, is highly appreciated!

Those of you buying the binding on our on-line sales site, will get the mounting template as a part of the shipment. You can download the template directly from here by clicking Mounting template pdf-version or Mounting template word-version. If you use the download-version of the template, please add 1 extra cm distance between front- and rear plates to make sure the Hinge Plate doesn´t hook into the Heel Lifter.

To verify that your printer is printing the template in the right scale, you can measure the distance between the front and rear holes for the Front Plate. The distance between the center of these holes should be exactly 10 centimeters.

Retailers can buy the Linken Mounting Jig, which is prepared for both balance point- and "alpine"-mounting.

Shops can also use the Rottefella jig to mount the binding as the hole pattern is the same as Rottefella Supercarve. Measure the distance between the Front Plate and Rear Plate holes on the Linken jig, and move the Rottefella jig according to this and use the same holes in the jig to make the holes for the Rear Plate.

See the article on binding placement! If you´re going for balance point mounting, the procedure is as follows:

Take a single ski and balance it on a straight edge, or something that will accurately balance the ski and mark that spot. Do the same for the other ski. There may be a slight difference between each ski, if there is, simply take the average of the two markings. Draw a straight line across each ski and this will be your reference point when using the Linken template.

Place the template at the ski with the ski balance point positioned accordingly to your decision on placement. Centre the template by using the scales in the front and rear part of the template. Secure the template on to the ski with tape at the front and rear end. Mark the holes at front and at rear using a pen; make sure it’s corresponding binding size standard. For sizes larger than 10, see bottom note.

Use a Ø 4 mm drill to make the eight fixing holes in each ski. The holes should be app. 9 mm (3/8”) deep. Remove the shavings from the holes.We strongly recommend using a drill stopper to avoid drilling too deep and damaging the ski base. You can buy drill and stopper at www.linken.com, but you’ll probably also find it in your well-assorted local tool store.

Drop some glue in each of the holes. Too much glue doesn’t hurt! Position the Front Plate on the ski and fasten it with four ski screws. The arrow on the backside of the plate determines the direction of the Rear Plate. This should point forward!Screws should be snug, but don’t over tighten and have the screws spin in the holes.

Position the Hinge Module on the Front Plate and fasten it with four machine screws. The screws should be well tightened, but don’t over tighten them.

Open the Adjustment Arm on the Heel module and slide it onto the Hinge Plate. Mounting is now complete!

The Linken Binding Shim Set is very easy to mount. If you already have the bindings mounted on the ski without the shims, you simply unscrew the four machine screws in the toe casing. Place the Front Shim on top of the standard Front Plate, and put the Hinge Module back on top of the plates. Attach the Hinge Module with the four 35 mm machine screws that followed the Shim Set.

To mount the Rear Shim, unscrew the four ski screws on the standard Rear Plate. Fill the screw holes with wooden glue, put the Rear Shim under the Rear Plate, and mount the two plates by using the new 25 mm ski screws that followed the ski.

Let the glue dry, and you’re ready to go!

If you´re mounting the Shim Set the first time you put the bindings on the skis, be sure to use the long ski screws on the Rear Plate. The short screws are to be used on the Front Plate even if the Shim Set is used. If you mix the screw you may get some bad surprises....

When mounting the Heel Lifters, a few tricks may come in handy. Don’t try to screw the Rear Plate on the ski first, and then slide the bails under it. Instead attach the bails to the Rear Plate in the upright position, and then mount the assembled Heel Lifters and the Rear Plate on the ski with the Heel Lifters in this position. Take a look at the photo series "Mounting the Heel Lifters" in the photo gallery for some illustrations.

Some general notes on mounting:
All binding screws require a Posidrive screwdriver, but a Phillips screwdriver will also work.

The Hinge Module is the only part where right and left parts are not interchangeable.

It may be smart to leave the ski face down while the glue is drying to avoid that it settles in the bottom of the screw holes. Be liberal with the glue, too much won’t hurt! In addition to the bonding, the glue works as a seal that prevents water from getting into the screw holes.

We recommend using wooden glue for mounting the bindings. Epoxy glue will work great too, but makes it harder to de-mount the bindings from the ski. It can however be done by heating the glue before unscrewing.

If you’re moving the binding, fill the old holes with glue or plugs.

Shops who have the Rottefella mounting jig, can use this for mounting Linken as we’ve got the same hole pattern as the Super Carve. The distance between the front and rear plate can be determined by measuring the Linken mounting jig.

The standard size hole pattern on the template can be used for mounting bindings for use with all boot sizes. However, for the largest sizes the Heel Module may be positioned a bit behind the Rear Plate, as on the picture above, and it may look a bit smoother if the Rear Plate is moved a bit further back on the ski.

If you want to do this, use the template to mount the Front Plates and the Hinge Module. Slide the Heel Module onto the Hinge Plate and position it correctly to your boot size. Now, use the Heel Module to determine the placement of the Rear Plates, and mount them the usual way.

However, the interface between the Heel Module and the Rear Plates is designed to work for all sizes, so this is only a cosmetic issue.

Length adjustment
To optimise the function of the binding, it’s important to set it up the right way. To get a compact and well functioning step-in function, it’s important to fix the Heel Module on the Hinge Plate in a correct setting. Make sure the heel of the boot hits the Heel Lock as rearmost as possible. If you adjust the binding more loosely, the step-in may feel a bit more sloppy. A looser adjustment may allow the boot to release easier from the binding, and if you like a looser feel, you should set it up this way.

Flex adjustment
The pre-tension of the spring is adjusted by turning the flex screw at the rear face of the binding. If you want a tight feel, turn the screw clockwise. If you want a looser feel, reduce the pre-tension of the spring by turning it counter-clockwise. Settings in the spring may occur, but doesn’t have any impact on the performance of the binding. Adjustment of the flex may also affect the possibility of release of the boot from the binding. Anyhow, be aware that the Linken Binding is not a release binding.

Height adjustment of the Heel Lock
Most teleboots have a groove in the lower part of the heel section where the cable fits in. To make the heel lock hit this groove correctly, it may be necessary to adjust the height position of the Heel Lock. This is done easily by turning the screw on top of the tower of the Heel Module.

The Linken Binding is a pretty simple binding that needs very little maintenance. However, to keep its function as smooth as possible, some minor actions may come in handy during the season.

Because of extended exposure to wet conditions, it may be wise to lubricate the moving parts in the Heel Module every now and then. This will keep the moving parts working smooth, and will make the operation of the Adjustment Arm as easy as possible. You can use most kind of lubricants, but thin floating oil will probably cause least mess. The kind of lubricants used on Mountain Bikes will work great, but will be washed away relatively fast. Fatter grease will last longer, but may loose some of its function in extremely cold conditions.

On certain snow conditions snow build up is a problem for all telebindings. If you run into these kinds of problems, use a silicon or de-icer to prevent this.

It’s very easy to replace the different parts in the Heel Module, and this section describes how to change the Teeth Segment.

Photos of the procedure are added in the Photo Gallery under “Replacing the teeth segment”, so it may come in handy to have this available as you read the instructions below.

1. Unscrew the little Hexagon screw that attaches the Teeth Segment to the Spring Axis. You need a standard 2 mm Metric Hexagon key to do this. This is a standard tool you get in every hardware store, gas station etc. (Picture 2)

2. Use a screwdriver or a similar device to push the Spring Axis backwards out of the Heel Module. Put the screwdriver through the hole in the Adjustment Arm so it hits the Spring Axis, and push carefully until the Teeth segment is released. (Picture 1)

3. Remove the old Teeth Segment and replace it with the new one. Push the Spring Axis back into the Heel Module, pay attention to the hole in the Spring Axis. This is where the little Hexagon Screw is supposed to settle when the Teeth Segment is being mounted, so this hole has to be correctly orientated. (Picture 3 and 4)

4. Push the Spring Axis back in place until approximately 1 cm is left, then put the Adjustment Arm back in place. When you put the Adjustment Arm in, be sure that it’s mounted in the “unlock”-position. Continue to push the Spring Axis back and into the Adjustment Arm. Stop when the hole in the Spring Axis corresponds with the hole in the Teeth Segment. Use the Adjustment Arm to fine-tune the orientation so the little Hexagon Screw can be mounted again. (Picture5)

5. Use Loctite or some other kind of appropriate thread locking to prevent the setscrew form unscrewing. Be aware that if you use regular epoxy glue, this will probably work fine until you want to demount the screw again….